John Gluckman

Runner, Climber, Adventurer

Adventure, climbing and survival


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Over the years, I've successfully climbed the highest peaks on every continent, as well as many other peaks in-between times. I completed the seven summits, and started climbing again only three and a half months after having my prostate gland removed. Below is a brief summary of my climbs.


Early Climbs

In December 1978 I reached the summit of Kilimanjaro in Tanzania by the Marangu [normal route]

In March 1982 I reached the summits of Orizaba and Popocatapetl. These are both volcanoes and are the highest and second highest peaks in Mexico. Orizaba is the 3rd highest peak in North America and Popocatapetl is the 5th highest peak in North America.

In May 1985 I joined an Australian expedition to Nepal and I reached the summit of 6,190 metre [20,307 foot] Island peak It is about ten kilometeres east of Mount Everest.

In February 1989 I made an attempt to reach the summit of the 6,960 metre [ 22,835 foot] Aconcagua which is the highest mountain in Argentina and in South America. I was a member of a New Zealand expedition. There were five of us on the expedition. We turned back 150 metres [500 feet] below the summit.

In December 1990 I was a member of a three person expedition to Antarctica. On 24th December we reached the summit of 4,887 metre [16,067 foot] Vinson Massif which is the highest mountain on the continent. The expedition was organized by Adventure Network International.

Back in New Zealand

In November 1991 I reached the summit of 3764 metre [12,349 foot] Mount Cook. It was a guided ascent. Four weeks later the top ten metres of the peak fell off.

In January 1992 I made a guided ascent of 3,498 metre [11,475 foot] Mount Tasman which is New Zealands's second highest mountain.

Irian Jaya

In February 1992 I was a member of a six man expedition to lrian Jaya which was organized by Adventure Network International. We climbed. To the summit of 4,883 metre [16,023 foot Carstenz pyramid which is the highest peak on the island of New Guinea and the world's highest insular peak. Some climbers regard it as the highest peak in Australasia and the seventh continental summit.

Mt. Everest

In May 1993 I successfully reached the summit of 8,848 metre[29,028 foot] Mount Everest. It is the world's highest mountain. The expedition was organized by Adventure Consultants, a New Zealand company that was at that stage run by the late Rob Hall and the late Gary Ball.

Recent Climbs

In June 1996 I reached the summit of 6,194 metre [20,320 foot] Mount McKinley which is in the state of Alaska. It is the highest mountain in North America. The expedition was organized by Rainier Mountaineering. I climbed the peak via the West Butress route and descended the peak via the Harper and Muldrow Glaciers. The expedition had twelve members.

In February 1997 I successfully reached the summit of Aconcagua. Adventure Plus, an Australian based company organized the expedition.

In May 1998 I was climbing with six other people in Greenland. A British company named Tangent Expeditions organized the expedition. We reached the summit of 3,700 metre [12,142 foot] Gunnbjoms Fjeld which is the highest mountain in both Greenland and the Arctic. We climbed all five of the five highest peaks in the Arctic on that expedition.

In May 1999 I made a solo ascent to the summit of 2,230 metre [7,316 foot] Kosciusko. It is the highest mountain on the continent of Australia.

In August 1999 I reached the summit of 5,895 metre [19,340 foot] Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania. It is the highest mountain in Africa. I made the ascent by the Umbwe route and the descent by the Mweka route. The climb was organized by a British company, Himalayan Kingdoms.

In February 2000 I attempted a winter ascent of 5,642 metre [18,481 foot] Elbrus which is in the Caucasus range in southern Russia. It is Europe's highest mountain. I hired a private guide. I turned back 330 metres [1,100 feet] below the summit.

In May 2000 I made fourteen first ascents of unclimbed peaks in Dronning Louise Land which is in north east Greenland. Tangent Expeditions organized the expedition.

In August 2000 I successfully reached the summit of Elbrus, having finally reached the summits of the highest peak on all seven continents. The expedition was organized by an American company Mountain Madness.

In April 2003 I joined an expedition to Baffin Island. Baffin Island belongs to Canada and is to the north of Labrador and Quebec. The expedition was organized by Tangent expeditions. I reached the summit of the Penny Icecap which is the highest point on the island only three and a half months after having my prostate gland removed.

Cancer

In December 2002 I was diagnosed with prostate cancer. I had the gland removed in early January 2003. I made a rapid and complete recovery after my operation, and have since gone on to complete marathons and climb even more mountains. Below are a range of photos from my time in hospital to a charity event to raise money for cancer research.